A Black Cosmetic Chemist Develops a Sunscreen That Leaves No White Cast on Dark Skin.
AJ Addae altered the shape of zinc oxide particles to eliminate the white residue on darker skin.
A Black cosmetic chemist has introduced a new sunscreen that addresses a long-standing problem for people with dark skin. Although mineral sunscreens are widely favored for their immediate sun protection and gentle ingredients, they have often fallen short for deeper skin tones. The zinc oxide commonly used in these formulas can leave a visible white cast, leading many dark-skinned consumers to opt instead for chemical sunscreens.
However, AJ Addae, a chemical biology researcher at University of California, Los Angeles, has developed an innovative solution to this persistent issue. As someone with dark skin herself, her work is driven by a personal commitment to making mineral sunscreen more inclusive and accessible for all skin tones.
“The best sunscreen is the one people will actually wear—that’s always been my motivation,” AJ Addae told ABC7.
To develop the formula, Addae collaborated with fellow University of California, Los Angeles scientist Paul S. Weiss at the Jonsson Comprehensive Cancer Center, where they investigated why mineral sunscreens often leave a chalky residue. Weiss explained that the white cast results from the clumping of traditional zinc oxide particles, which are typically round and irregular in shape.
To solve this, the researchers reengineered the zinc oxide into tetrapod-shaped particles that remain evenly spaced on the skin. This structure creates smooth, stable networks that spread uniformly, effectively eliminating the clumping that causes the white cast.
The reengineered formula not only proved effective, but it also delivered UV protection comparable to existing sunscreen products. Additionally, the innovation eliminated the need for solvents typically used to dissolve UV filters, making the formulation a more environmentally conscious option.
For her broader accomplishments in scientific innovation and entrepreneurship, AJ Addae was awarded $100,000 through Black Ambition Prize, founded by Pharrell Williams, as reported by University of California, Los Angeles. The prize supports her company, Sula Labs, which she founded to test beauty products for major retailers including Sephora and Ulta.
As a pioneering cosmetic chemist and entrepreneur, Addae has committed her work to advancing inclusivity in beauty and skincare. She plans to use the funding to expand that mission—ensuring personal care products are designed for everyone. “While the prize money is incredible, the win represents the impact and scale of our efforts to close inclusivity gaps in cosmetics and personal care through science,” she said after receiving the award in November.
With her no–white cast sunscreen expected to reach the market soon, Addae is opening the door for Black consumers across the full spectrum of skin tones to feel seen and included in the next generation of skincare products.
